Queen Charlotte Track

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Upon arriving in Picton, I had a reservation for a hostel, and I decided to walk there from ferry terminal. As I was getting close to hostel, I saw this immense tree, which I recognized as I got closer as a Giant Sequoia. These are not native to New Zealand, although I was questioning this in my mind. While small by Giant Sequoia standards, these are still amazing trees to see up close.

The owner of the hostel was able to book me on a boat ride to the start of the Queen Charlotte Track for the next morning. This included a boat ride to the start, a boat ride back to Picton and my belonging carted around each day from campsite to campsite, after a bit of hemming and hawing I went for it. I wasn’t really sure how this would work, but all I had to carry on my back was food and drink. My camping equipment was dropped at my campsite.

Next morning I got on boat for ride out, and it wasn’t simply a ride out, but also a bit of a tour, at one point circling around a fish farm that had a seal lurking for easy fish. It was a nice boat ride, the weather was great. You get dropped off in nice little spot, and there is a hike up to an historical spot, which I did not take. I should have. The hike started with an uphill climb, and yes, there were a few switchbacks on this first slope as I remember. It was well tree covered though, so not much in the way of views. Also, on this section the trail cuts across a section of land where the state is trying to eradicate possums and other vermin that eat all the native wildlife. This meant there were traps every all along the side of the trail. Apparently this is a pretty effective method to get rid of these destructive pests.

Anyway the first day of the hike had a few nice views, but for the most part is was lower down the slopes and hiking along the water. I don’t remember this so very well, and my pics don’t offer much help. I don’t have much from fist day. Around noon I was taking a break, sitting on trail having a snack, and this German guy stops and talks to me for a few minutes. No big deal, normal trail conversation, except after we have a conversation, he just waits there. He decided that we were going to hike together. So we did.

About 3 or so, we got arrived at the Furneaux Lodge. This was surprising to me, as it is a rather nice hotel. I don’t think there are any roads close by, but I stopped with my new German friend and I had a cider. Happily, after leaving the lodge, my German hiking partner did not have too far to go before arriving at his overnight location. I had another couple of hours. He, being the superior German hiker, told me that he would of course catch up to me the next day. Sigh. He probably was faster than me, but geez. He was a nice guy, but just a bit insistent. I went along, and arrived at my camping location. It was a state park type of place, kind of ugly, but it was fine. My stuff was left on the dock not too far away. The next morning I packed my stuff and put it back on the same dock.

The second day took me back up onto the ridge. Around 10, I reached an trail offshoot that went to a high spot. I went up and got some really nice views. I have a bunch of pics from that spot. The trail up to this spot was interesting. It went straight up a very steep hill. It was wide trail, and nicely maintained, but straight up. This was to become a theme of New Zealand hiking.

The rest of the day was nice views and relatively easy hiking as I recall. It was pretty warm, and my feet were starting to suffer a bit from heat, and the trail was hilly and steep in places, again, no switchbacks. My second night was spent just off a small beach. I went swimming. A hotel was close by, and my stuff was left there. A short walk up the road. It was confusing to me, where I had to go to my stuff was very unclear. I think it being offseason was why. The German guy did not catch me that day, but he had glommed onto some one else, but he was still around. I talked to a few others and it seemed most everyone had experienced this glomming.

The last day was again up on the ridge, there was another hotel resort I could have visited down by the water (for ice cream I read), but I decided not to. My feet were suffering with blisters developing, not a good sign, nad I also had to meet my boat at a particular time. I did not want to be late.

Later on in the day, as I was getting towards end, and I was limping a bit, I again saw German guy come by, and he gave me some stuff for blisters. But he went along. I think maybe he finally realized I was not looking for a hiking partner, he did say where he was going next and invited me along. I declined, as that was not a trail I was interested in along with not looking to travel with somebody.

The day finished at a small town although that is probably too grand a term, and it was Sunday, so even the one small shack of a store that sold drinks was closed. Eventually my taxi boat arrived, and I got a nice hour long ride back to Picton. We passed one of those humongous cruise boats the vomited people into Picton. I was astonished at hour big it was. When you go by in a small boat, a few hundred yards away, you get more sense of size of these things.

Anyway, I was really looking forward to the Queen Charlotte Track when I was planning my trip and it did not disappoint. It was such a beautiful hike. It was not hard, but where there were hills and there was a good bit of up and down, they were steep. Although I did not get thru it as easily as I expected.

I am very pleased I did this hike not in season. From what I read and what I saw on trail, it gets crowded, and also hot during the busy season. I understand it takes planning ahead to book a camping spot or hotel. Most of the trail is on private property and is run by a trust of sorts so you can’t just pick a spot and camp. Not having to carry your stuff each day was kind of nice, and I think it worked out well for me.